2009 Robustus

The 2009 Robustus is typically the winery's most unusual red. It is a field blend aged in 2,000-liter vats for 49 months. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. In theory, it's a big, big wine--hence the name--but everything is relative as Niepoort always leans to elegance, even with this. The mid-palate is gracefully constructed, which is no surprise, because that is Niepoort. If it is denser than some in the Niepoort stable, it still seems graceful compared to what many other producers offered in this big vintage. It tightens considerably on the finish, showing fine structure to go with the beautiful fruit. It is simply bursting with flavor, too. Despite the long oak treatment--but not in small barrels--this is surprisingly fresh. It is a wine you can admire and drink effortlessly at the table, too. As understated as it seemed on opening, it kept getting better over several hours. There are hidden layers here. This is a late release and quite approachable now, but it will also continue to age well. (Wine Advocate)