1998 Clos des Goisses L.V.

Clos des Goisses ‘L. V.’ Long Vieillissement (Philipponnat) 1998 (Champagne; 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay; dosage of 4.5 g/l; disgorged in March 2023). Tasted with Charles Philipponnat at the property two weeks before its release. Wow! A wine of staggering purity and intensity. Girolles and black truffle, cèpes and trompettes de la mort. Quince, apricot and peach. Some exotic fruits, perhaps a little mango. Saffron. This is ample and richer in style than if it had been made today. Creamy risotto, with plenty of caramelised butter. On the palate, apricots, a little fleur d’oranger, just a hint of raspberry and loganberry. And a little fleur de sel. This is more slender and etiolated on the finish, but utterly wonderful at the same time. It’s a beautiful signature of the vintage and of this exceptional terroir. Sapid and juicy on the gracious finish where the sense of delicacy and finesse is strongest.
95/100+ Colin Hay; The Drinks Business